Vacation for my Soul - Bicycling San Juan Island

Regardless of whether I’m in a relationship or single, I take at least a weekend trip by myself every year. It gives me room to process, check in with myself and decide what’s next for me. I call it: mini vacations for my soul.

This Spring I landed, literally, on beautiful San Juan Island. I had parked my car at the Anacortes ferry terminal and walked, with my trusted Mountain Bike Speedy onto the Washington State Ferry. An hour of absolutely stunning views later I rode off the ferry in cute Friday Harbor and checked into the Sucia room at the Bird Rock Hotel, a block from the dock. The Bird Rock Hotel is one of the oldest hotels on the island, newly renovated, very inviting and friendly. I found secure parking for Speedy in the amble courtyard and was shown to my lovely, harbor view room on the 3^rd floor. The hotel has a handful of rooms with shared bathrooms, the Sucia being one of them. The very clean bathrooms are on the 2^ndfloor, one has a walk-in shower, the other a claw foot tub, and not once did I have to wait to get in.

Friday – American Camp

After a refreshing strawberry lemonade and freshly baked chocolate chip cookie (the Bird Rock’s afternoon treat), I took Speedy on our first island ride to American Camp, about 7 miles south of Friday Harbor. The 100 acres of mountains, beaches, coves, prairie grass and cliffs were the former site of the American occupation during the Pig War in 1859, when San Juan Island’s statehood was contested. I read that Cattle Point Road, the road through American Camp, had to be rebuilt, because it was in danger of falling into the water. I wanted to see that.

The ride was challenging and gorgeous through lush valleys and fields dotted with cows and goats and picturesque farm stands. I entered American Camp proper and went another 2.5 miles, past a thousand bunnies and just as many foxes, many tame and eager to see if I had tasty snacks (I didn’t, I don’t feed wildlife).

When Cattle Point Light House came into view, I knew I must be riding on the new road, higher up on Mt Finlayson, not in danger of erosion. The old road below me was starting to be overgrown by grass and wildflowers and was now a comfortable walking trail above the water. I rode down to Cattle Point Lighthouse and sat on the cliffs until the sun was low in the sky. On the water before me I watched loons and oystercatchers fish for dinner, as the Olympic Mountains changed from blues to reds. Back at the hotel, I fell asleep to the sound of the ferry’s foghorn that night, very tired and happy.

Saturday – Pelindaba Lavender Farm, Lime Kiln State Park & Roche Harbor

I woke up early, had fresh baked cranberry scones, fresh fruit and yogurt from the Bird Rock’s breakfast buffet, and flew out the door, ready to explore more of gorgeous San Juan Island. Speedy and I took Spring Street out of town to the Pelindaba Lavender Farm about 8 miles west of Friday Harbor. The roads are narrow and have no shoulder. The thought crossed my mind, that other tourists in cars, in utter awe just like me, might not pay attention to bicycles. I did feel safe though. Islanders are definitely used to bicyclists, slow down, smile and wave. On the end of windy Wold Road lies Pelindaba Lavender Farm. The fields are in full bloom in July & August, but even now in Spring the rolling hills of beautifully manicured lavender plants with gorgeous art pieces in between were just incredible. As the wind whipped through my hair, I smelled the lavender shampoo I had used at the hotel. Bird Rock buys all their body care products from the farm. I love the fact, that my shampoo travelled exactly 8 miles, before I used it. Pelindaba’s farm store wasn’t open yet, but their Friday Harbor store is open year-round and I did go souvenir shopping there, oh did I.

Back in the saddle I turned right on Westside Road towards Lime Kiln State Park, the world’s best place to see Orcas from land. A hilly, strenuous 3 miles later I rolled right up to the Red Checkered Picnic, a quaint sandwich and ice cream stand in the park, where I had a hot dog and an ice-cream bar for lunch, best I ever had. I locked up Speedy and meandered through Madrona shaded trails to the lighthouse. There were quite a few people, all staring out to the water, some with binoculars. I felt my heart pounding. Could it be? And then I heard them. And then I saw them in the distance. Orca whales. They played, they jumped. There was a baby! I forgot time and let myself be.

When the black fish had moved on, I made my way north to Roche Harbor Resort, 11 miles up the coastline, along beautiful shoreline vistas, farmland and woods. This was the workout part of my trip. I got in the zone and felt the burn, smiling, sweating and so thrilled to be here. I zipped by the scenic San Juan County Park, where the movie “Practical Magic” had been filmed, then past an Alpaca Farm and through English Camp, the counterpart to American Camp during the occupation. I didn’t stop for the Sculpture Park on the entrance to Roche Harbor, I was too hungry, but saw some very cool sculptures riding by. When I locked up Speedy at Roche Harbor’s waterfront, my legs were shaking. I made it to the deck of the Madrona Grill, where I treated myself to a fresh Berry Mint Mojito and a San Juan Valley Lamb Burger. The sunset over the busy marina was marvelous. I took a taxi back to Friday Harbor, snuggled up in my bed on top of the world and loved my life.

Sunday – San Juan Vineyard & Mona, the Camel

On Sunday I slept in and had a late breakfast on Bird Rock’s sunny, flowery patio. Before catching an afternoon ferry, I took Speedy on a 3-mile ride to the San Juan Vineyard on Roche Harbor Road. Roche Harbor Road is wider and has a bit of a shoulder. I’m glad I took the scenic route along the west side, but it’s good to know that there is another way to Roche Harbor. I sat on the porch of the vineyard’s tasting room, sipping delicious wines. I especially loved their Siegerrebe and bought a couple of bottles to bring home.

Across the street from the vineyard lives Mona, the island camel. She is a rescue, brought here some 15 years ago to live out her life. When she got lonely, her owners got her a strapping Alpaca boyfriend. Cute couple.

Back in Friday Harbor, I checked out the abundance of cute shops while waiting for the ferry. The mini vacation for my soul had been a huge success. This was not my last time there.